It has been a tricky past few days and so firstly I do apologize to those who have been waiting on this blog post which is long overdue. As with most projects I take on, I underestimated the amount of time this would take and wish that I could have waited until a later date to offer this new option. This is the most comprehensive work I’ve done with regards to knots since offering the XD variants a few years back.
I made the decision to formally introduce this option right now due to the number of requests that I’ve received that had to do with knot shapes recently. Notably, a couple of requests for bulb knots came in with the last run of 2021 and they were 29mm. Until now, I have not offered specific knot shapes but have been happy to make a knot based on a special request if a patron requested it. Given that I have been working on dialing in the deep bulb knot’s specification at the larger size as well as seeing some specific knot shape requests I think this is the right time to give this aspect of the custom ordering process some structure.
I’ve been working on mainly three things since my last blog post. I wanted to dial in, as I mentioned, the specification for the bulb knots and really get a grasp of why they exist in the first place (besides how great they look). Also, I’ve tuned up my knot-making procedures to allow for more specific knot shapes, which I’ll detail below. Thirdly, I’ve spent some time re-tying some knots so that all the knots in the line-up are more consistent with the new guidelines.
Four Knot Shapes
I’ll be offering four knot shapes going forward. They will be Fan, Classic, Hybrid, and Bulb. The shapes are based on the concept of the knot and its domed section or what I will describe as the rise. This is the height of the section of the knot which rises above the tips of the hairs at the edge of the knot.
This is a hybrid shaped knot which is probably the best way to easily grasp the rise. The four shapes that I’ve laid out have their own rise specification and are based on my interpretation of these traditional knot shapes as well as the desired performance characteristics. The Varlet’s knot shapes and individual rise specifications are unique to The Varlet’s knots, and don’t adhere to any industry “rules” nor is there any attempt to impose these guidelines on any other brush-maker. This is merely a way to communicate with some clarity the shapes of the knots I’ll be offering to those looking to specify a custom brush. The details for each shape are:
Note: Rise specifications are measured during the knot making process, and as such are before use or pre-bloom.
Fan - rise of ~10mm
A very popular shape and the most modern looking knot profile. The minimal dome to this knot shape results in the knot feeling as big as possible with most of the tips contacting the face during lathering. The slight rise of 10mm ensures the knot is easy to splay but keeps it well within range for the most die-hard of fan fanatics and its profile is unmistakable.
Classic - Rise of ~13.5mm
Not a term often used to describe a knot, but I chose to name this shape the Classic due to it’s versatility and it being probably the shape that I’ve tied the most. It has enough of a dome to give it some cushion and also gives a large feel on the face. It does everything well and is a go-to because it compliments just about any handle shape. It’s a nice variation of a fan shaped knot but with a little more of a traditional look and balance.
Hybrid - Rise of ~22mm
The hybrid knot gives the most firm lathering experience of any of the shapes, and gives the most cushion. The large domed section makes for shorter hairs at the edges of the knot, which are the most firm. With most of The Varlet’s knots at about 50mm in loft, the reasonable 22mm rise is usually less than half of the loft height which allows the knot to still splay and release lather.
Bulb - Rise of ~35mm
The most difficult knot shape to form successfully and the most enigmatic when it comes to performance. The bulb is the only knot in The Varlet’s line-up which carries a lower density specification than standard, for both XD and HD-T density knots of all sizes. The bulb’s function is to achieve excellent lather release while not having to compromise on firmness. This allows the knot to be balanced but give cushion in the lathering process, so there is no need to pack the density or lower the loft too extremely to achieve it. With the deep domed section, this knot gives a unique lathering experience and is a nice homage to some beautiful brushes from the last century.
I’ll be adding the knot shape option to the Options page shortly. Here are the first few brushes made with the specifications in place. Most are classic shapes unless I received a special request. I’ll be getting in touch individually with everyone as well via email. Knots are not currently set in the handles yet, so if anyone wants to change their knot shape we can discuss it and I can still accommodate changes to the knots if need be. I’ll be continuing to work on the rest of the remaining brushes that still need knots over the next few days and will ship brushes as they become ready to pack.
Thanks to everyone for your patience and I feel the work to make this option available will be worth it, as my goal is always for everyone to love their custom creations and enjoy the best shaves possible. I will have another blog post in about a couple of weeks, but as always please get in touch via email if you have any questions and I will try to reply timely. Enjoy the photos, everyone, and thanks again.
-Aldo
